BOOK REVIEW
The Benin City Pilgrimage Stations
By Ehichioya Ezomon
Benin Chief... The Route To Honour where the newly ennobled chiefs of Benin Kingdom go to undergo interviews before their conferment perhaps, not many of them would be able to name, and in sequence, some 14 pilgrimage stations or shrines they are bound to visit in the course of the sanctification and validation of their titles. Probably fewer still could relate the history, and significance, of these stations, some of which date back to between 150 and 750 years. However, in The Benin City Pilgrimage Stations, Dr. Ekhaguosa Aisien, a consultant surgeon who practices at Azuwa Hospital, Benin City, tells the individual stories of the city's landmarks.
The 236-page book delves, sometimes in detail, into aspects of the Benin History. Such areas are: The kingdom's peoples, their customs, tradition and more; The Monarchy as represented by the Ogiso Dynasty (31 monarchs) and the Oba Dynasty (39 monarchs, including incumbent Omo N'Oba N'Edo Uku Akpolokpolo, Oba Erediauwa); the wars and conquests of the Kingdom or Empire; the people's defiance of and resistance to bullying, which was partly responsible for the Benin Conquest of 1897 and the subsequent exile of Oba Ovonranmwen to Calabar by the British colonialists; the creation of Government Reserved Areas, and the introduction of gunpowder and cigarette into the city; the introduction of Christianity into Benin as the first place where the religion was preached in Nigeria; and the revolt of the Chiefs against it as a state religion.
While Others are the creation of five of the 14 shrines directly by the first coming of Christianity to Benin City 500 years ago; the supreme sacrifices some individuals had to pay, particularly females to save the monarchy; the ancient Benin Prisons (Ewedo) on which plot stands today the Federal Benin Prisons on Sapele Road; the construction of the great Moats, which divide the city into Inner City and Outer City; the construction of the giant overhead reservoir in front of the Oba's Palace; the erection of the first two-storey buildings in Ughoton and Benin City in 1718 and 1906 respectively; the link between Benin and Upper Egypt and Sudan as the possible origin of the Benin peoples; the change of Ubini or Ubini-Uhe to Edo by Oba Ewuare in honour of a slave, Edo, who saved his life before he ascended the throne; and the naming of Akpakpava Street.
The Benin City Pilgrimage Stations stands out in its uniqueness of focusing on the processes an ennobled citizen has to undertake to consummate the royal offer. For the simple reason that the Chiefs constitutes an elite group, which assists the Oba in administering the vast kingdom, the knowledge of their coming to such position is of immense advantage not only to those who aspire to chieftaincy but also to the generality of society. The book contains illustrations of about 126 photographs as old as 1892, maps and tables of the major characters, places, objects, events, roads and the processional routes the newly ennobled takes to the designated shrines for sanctification. With generous use of anecdotes, images and medical terminology, the author marries oral and written accounts to present an informative, educative and enlightening piece on Benin history.
- The Pilgrimage Stations in sequential order comprise Aro Edion Edo (The Edion Edo Shrine)
- Aro Ekpenede (Fore-court)
- Aro Oto Ogbe
- Aruosa N'Ogbelaka and Aro Ewua N'Ogbelaka.
- Others are the Isekhurhe Palace
- Aro Igun N'Ugboha
- Aro Iyantor Erhie
- Egedege Nokaro
- Aro Ezomo Agban
- Aruosa N'Erhie
- Aruosa N'Akpakpava
- and Aruosa Iyase N'Ohenmwen.
The ceremonial outings by the new Chief called Okhaemwen (he who speaks), consist of the first two to the palace of the Oba; the actual pilgrimage to the 14 stations within the Inner City covering a distance of about six kilometres, and the last outing (thanksgiving), not compulsory, is performed in recognition of the Uzama Chiefs, the king makers located in the Outer City. Naturally, the new Chief sets out from his house to the palace after the second day of the conferment of the title on him by the Oba's messengers. The ceremony is called Ekponmwen Obo (thanksgiving done with the hands only) because no drummer accompanies the celebrant. The essence of the visit is to assure both the monarch and the honoured citizen that it is the intended title that was given and received. The next outing is the Egie Ekete (title conferment from the throne), wherein the Oba, sitting in his quadrangle in the palace, "formally and publicity 'confirmed' the new Chief in the title already conferred, in the presence of a great concourse of people." Now the Chief is ready for the Ekponmwen Orere or Ighogh'Egie (public outing of thanksgiving), doing a 'Lap of Honour' round Benin City, on a pilgrimage to designated shrines. Aro Edion Edo (The Edion Edo Shrine) Situated between the main entrance of the Oba's palace and the Oredo Local Council headquarters on Ring Road, Benin City, the shrine is dedicated to the spirits of the collective dead of the city. It is the first pilgrimage station visited by the new Chief who, after offering his thanksgiving to the Oba sitting on the throne, walks a short distance from the palace to the shrine.
Aro Ekpenede (The Aro Ekpenede Shrine): Located in two places (stations 2 and 4), the first is about 100 metres from the Aro Edion Edo. The celebrant arrives at Iwebo Street, turns right towards the shrine and twirls his Eben once or twice as acknowledgement of the shrine. At the main shrine on Ekpenede Street, which the celebrant encounters later, he presents his propitiation gifts and receives the recognition and prayers of the shrine's keepers. Aro Iden (The Iden Shrine): Surrounded by an iron fence, on Iwebo Street, it is the sacred grave of Iden, wife of Oba Ewuakpe (27th Oba of Benin), who offered herself to be buried alive by the Oba, as sacrifice to save her husband's throne from being abrogated by the people. Almost swallowed up by the Oba Market, the grave is not yet officially a shrine. But as a precautionary measure, rather than reverence, the new Chief only takes notice of it as the procession sweeps by. It is forbidden for anything that has life to step on Iden's grave.
Aro Emotan (The Emotan Shrine): Erected on the grave, the dwelling place of a childless widow, Emotan, who dedicated her life to the service of other people's children, and saved the throne for Oba Ewuare (13th Oba of Benin), it is the best known shrine in Benin City. It is visited and honoured not only by new Chiefs "but also by children of deceased citizens during the Isoton portion of the funeral obsequies of their late parents," which are common sights on Benin streets, except during the Igwe Festival that lasts 14 days. The Emotan structure was commissioned and unveiled by Oba Akenzua II (38th Oba of Benin), father of the incumbent Oba Erediauwa II. Aro Oto Ogbe (The Oto Ogbe Shrine): Representing the land shrine for the Iyeke-Ogbe (Ogbe-Ewuare) community organised by Oba Ewuare after the construction of the Inner (Ewuare) Moat some 550 years ago, the shrine is visited by the celebrant after the procession to Emotan and Ekpenede Shrine (4th or 5th station if notice is taken of Iden Shrine). The Ikhinmwin tree behind and on the sides depicts it.
Aruosa N'Ogbelaka (The Osa N'Ogbelaka): It could well represent the death of Christianity of old in Benin City. The shrine is located on the site of one of the four Chapels built by Oba Esigie (17th Oba of Benin), the first Benin Monarch to embrace Christianity. But his Chiefs led by the Oliha revolted against him and in the ensuing civil war, were worsted. The Oliha, who wanted a new dynasty, like it happened after the reign of the Ogisos when Prince Oronmiyan of Ile-Ife was invited to begin a new dynasty 400 years earlier, also invited the Atta of Igalla, to remove Esigie. But according to the author, "the Atta was robbed of victory by the guns of the same Christian forces he had been called upon to help drive away from Benin." Following the victory, Oba Esigie built a Cathedral and four Chapels.
The Aruosa Shrine stands today where the Aruosa Chapel stood 500 years ago. Unfortunately, by the reign of Oba Orhogbua (Esigie's son) the Cathedral and Chapels became Aro Osa or Aruosa (Shrines to the Supreme God). While Orhogbua abdicated his priesthood, for which he had trained abroad, to the few Portuguese priests and native catetchists, by the reign of his son, Ehengbuda (19th Oba of Benin), Christianity had gone "native" in Benin. The Catetchists and trained 'Brothers' became the Ohen Osa or Ohensa (Priests of the Supreme God) when the Vatican and Portugal could no longer sustain the missionary efforts of manning the Chapels. Situated off Sapele Road, more than one kilometre from the last shrine (Aro-Oto Ogbe) of call by the celebrant, the Aruosa Shrine is where the Pilgrim receives his first "chalk-bath", "denoting his sanctification for service to God, to his monarch and to the Benin Kingdom."
Aro Ewua N'Ogbelaka (The Ewua N'Ogbelaka Shrine): Located on the parallel Ogbesasa Street, and the seventh station in the pilgrimage route, the shrine is Christianity-derived, "a relic of the first coming of Roman Catholicism into Benin" during Oba Esigie's reign. Isekhurhe Palace: Here is the first station outside the Ogbe half of the Inner City, which itself is divided into two by the Sokponba and Oba Market Roads. Less than one kilometre from the Aro Ewua, the Isekhurhe, a hereditary title holder, is one of the principal Chiefs of the Ihogbe, the official "relatives of the Oba." It is situated near the Uzama Palace, where Prince Oronmiyan (Ist Oba of Benin from Ile-Ife (Uhe)) stayed when he arrived in Benin on the invitation of the Uzama to help drive from power Ogiamien, who stepped in as ruler after the last Ogiso Dynasty. A descendant of Ihama, one of the three relatives Oronmiyan left behind in Benin City to look after his wife, Erinmwinde, mother of Oba Eweka (2nd Oba of Benin), he belongs to the Iuoba Guild, which prepares the sepulchre of the Obas of Benin, resembling those of the Pharaohs of Egypt. Along with the Ihama, the Isekhure takes part in the propitiation of the head of the monarch, and of the ancestral spirits of the land.
Presently occupied by a graduate of American Universities, Chief Nosakhare Isekhure, the Isekhure Palace is the first station where the celebrant unwinds in his tasking pilgrimage. Here he receives some comprehensive tutorial "in the ways of the new office he has now assumed. With strength regained the new Chief steps out and moves down the Utantan (Sokponba Road) to the Ninth Station on his route." Aro Igun N'Ugboha (The Igun N'Ugboha Shrine): Dedicated to the blacksmiths of the city, who made the arms of war of those days and other metallurgical needs of the Kingdom. The composite shrine and another are located in the quarter of Igun N'Ugboha, directly facing the Erhie Street junction on Sokponba Road. They serve as the ancestor-worship shrine for the guild, the guardian spirit of the metallurgists and to the legendary founder of the guild, Enowe N'Ugboha. Today the blacksmiths make the Eben and Ada ceremonial Swords of State for new Chiefs.
Inyantor Erhie (The Iyantor Erhie Shrine): It consists of a clump of Uwenrhien-Otan reeds in front of No. 10, Erhie Street. One of the landmarks of the quarter, it was traditionally the area where the Royal Harem (Erhie Oba) were serviced, whether ill or pregnant, and looked after. It is variously called Iyantor Erhie, Osa-Nailaban Shrine and Eimwen Amaru Shrine. Chief Uso N'Ibiwe is responsible for the care of the shrine. Egedege Nokaro (The First Storey-Building in Benin City): Interestingly in his lap of honour, the ennobled citizen recognises the first two-storey (storey) building in Benin City, which is eight years older than the current Oba's Palace built in 1914 but 188 years younger than the first two-floor building constructed in the Kingdom at Ughoton in 1718. Erected by Chief Iyamu, son of Chief Osawe, then Inneh N'Ibiwe of Oba Ovonranmwen, the house is located on Erhie Street and because of its height appropriately tagged; "Eti ii mu Uloko" (Thickets do not stunt the growth of the Iroko). Now inherited by Chief Osayande, the Esogban of Benin, the property, essentially in its original state till date, is officially not one of the Pilgrimage Stations that must be visited by new Chiefs. Yet, some of them call at the premises on their way to the next shrine.
Aro Ezomo Agban (The Ezomo Agban Shrine): Situated at Upper Erhie, the shrine is double: commemorating two personages. The less-known Oghogiotor, a warrior and member of the Ibiwe Royal Society, responsible for care of the Royal Harem; and Agban, the Ezomo of Benin, whose period spanned the reign of Oba Orhogbua and Oba Ehengbuda (18th Oba of Benin). Agban it was who prosecuted the pacification of the Western Ibos. His lineage, right from the first Ezomo of Benin, Chief Ekenika, presides over the Uzebu Quarter of the city, and therefore in charge of the maritime gateway into Benin because of their expertise in maritime warfare. For their exploits, the Ezomo title was made hereditary and included in the Uzama), the seven noble kingmakers of Benin, who crown the Prince, Edaiken, the younger of the Uzama. In his pilgrimage a new Chief is received by the keepers of the composite shrine, and then moves to the Twelfth Station in the Route of Honour.
Aruosa N'Erhie (The Osa N'Erhie): Again one of the Chapels built by Oba Esigie but which turned into a shrine when Christianity went "native" during the reign of his grandson, Ehengbuda. Of importance to note under this head is that the newly ennobled citizens take the same route, which the Roman Catholic Priests and the congregation took from the Ogbelaka Chapel Aruosa N'Ogbelaka to the last of the old Christian relics in the city, the Akpakpava Cathedral Aruosa N'Akpakpava, during the yearly Corpus Christi and Mardi Gras public processions through the streets of Benin. And it is only at the Aruosa N'Ogbelaka that the celebrant is given a body "bath" of powdered chalk, signifying sanctification for the tasks ahead of him. But unless the keepers of the Aruosa N'Erhie are waiting for him, the celebrant does it honour with four trills of the Eben and moves along.
Aruosa N'Akpakpava (The Osa N'Akpakpava): Standing opposite the T-Junction made by the Igbesanmwan Street with Akpakpava Road, it is the Cathedral established with four Chapels by Oba Esigie. But its later day status as the Holy Aruosa Cathedral was the handiwork of Oba Akenzua II in 1946, who built the Temple on the old site of the Roman Catholic Cathedral 450 years then. The Temple proclaims "the Doctrine of Godianism, the doctrine of one-to-one mutual interaction between God and Man, without the need for an Enlightened One, a Way-Shower or a Redeemer coming between to explain God to Man or to lead Man to God." The Oba of Benin makes this Temple famous today as a place of worship. So the new Chief on his pilgrimage stands in front of the Holy Aruosa Temple and acknowledges with his Eben, his gratitude to Osanobua Noghodua (Supreme God) for the gift of life, and for the honour and social status bestowed on him.
Iyase N'Ohenmwen: His abode at Ugbague, off Ewaise (Forestry) Road, he was the Prime Minister (Iyase) of Benin during the throne of Oba Osemwende (34th Oba of Benin). A man of immeasurable wealth, he invited the Oba to his house, to enable him showcase his material and human possessions. And for the occasion, he rolled out red carpet (linen), which stretched from the palace to his house, a distance barely short of one kilometre. After the royal visit, the Iyase folded the bale, and together with the boxes (ekpoki) of money and the young men and women, who lined the route, sent them as gifts, an imuohan, to the Oba for honouring the invitation. Subsequently, the Oba blessed the Iyase N'Ohenmwen, and the generations that would spring from his loins, and included the Ohenmwen's premises "to the stations, which a new Chief must call at in his thanksgiving pilgrimage through the city." The keepers of the shrine, who are direct descendants of Ohenmwen, are always there to welcome the newly ennobled citizen to the last station, which signifies his successful completion of the pilgrimage.